Right. So. You screwed holes into your roof. Or someone did, supposedly “installing” solar rails. And now… well, now it smells funny in the attic when it rains. Somewhere between damp socks and forgotten muffins. Water is coming in, or almost in, or you’re just suspicious and crawling up the trusses like a raccoon detective.
Yeah. That.
Photovoltaic rail systems—they’re nifty until they’re not. You got rails mounted on brackets, brackets bolted, lagged, maybe even goose-glued straight into your shingles or tiles or… hopefully not foam. And the moment of truth always arrives like an off-key trumpet. Moisture doesn’t knock. Just slides in bold-faced.
The Perforation Culprit
Roofs aren’t emotionally ready for holes. They’re like onions—layered, precise, fussy. You poke ’em wrong and they sulk via mold.
What happens way too often—folks drill into decking (the wood panel part) but misjudge slope, flashing layout, underlayment seams, or worse, rafter line. They miss the rafter and the fastener frisbees into open air beneath the plywood. Or it embeds into rotted half-ply from the Carter administration. Either way, result: flawed fastening plus nowhere for water to redirect except… downward. As always. Gravity doesn’t text beforehand.
And hey, flashing? Flashing gets ignored more than parsley garnish. Or it gets gooped with whatever gray slop was nearby. One product smelled like mint, another like dead squirrel.
To assess the damage associated with a hole in the roof, begin by thoroughly examining your home’s exterior and interior. Look for visible signs of damage, such as missing or cracked shingles, holes, and water stains. Pay close attention to the area surrounding the hole to identify any additional points of concern.
Next, inspect the interior, particularly the attic, for indications of leakage, such as damp insulation, water stains on rafters, or mold growth. Document all findings, including the size and location of the hole and any related damage.
https://lyonsroofing.com/how-to-patch-a-hole-in-my-roof/
Alright, Stop. Uninstall Time.
Now there’s the groan part. To fix what’s ‘perforated’, you’ve usually gotta pull things back off. Rails, brackets, standoffs—off they go. Into the grass or the driveway or stacked on the doghouse roof like solar Jenga.
Some will try to patch what’s beneath without disturbing the top. Nope. Like patching jeans from the outside with duct tape. Briefly satisfying. Long-term shame.
Once hardware’s off, now you’re staring at holes. Maybe 20. Maybe 80. You’re squinting into each one like it might reveal your tax bracket. Some are full of mystery caulk. Some missed the rafter by a polite 3 inches. One might hit a knot and look clean but wobbles with a whisper of doom.
Yeah, But How Do You… Plug That?
Options vary. Whether lazy, precise, drunk on roof-resin, or well-meaning but oblivious—roofers have used all the following:
– Roof tar from a cracked tub in the garage
– Stainless lag bolts dipped in sealant like fondue
– Silicone. Always silicone. Too much silicone. That one squirt bottle from 2015 that’s half vinegar now.
– Custom-fabbed metal flashing bits cut with garden shears
– Beer can cutouts (someone actually did this, I saw it on an 8-pitch shingle roof in Boise)
Best practice—well, okay, better practice—is more boring. Let’s say you lift surrounding shingles gently-ish, dry it all, and insert a proper peel-and-stick flashing patch over the hole. Or you plug the hole solid—wood filler, then deck tape. Some folks even put in framing from below (attic gymnastics) so re-drilling isn’t a re-nightmare. Screwing into air won’t suddenly work later.
After the repair—wait for dry sun. Let new sealants cook. You want it looking boring. If it’s shiny, cracked, weepy, or has a fly stuck in it… nope. Try again.
Flashback: Installers in a Hurry
Now let’s sip tea and blame. Or coffee… maybe Mezcal. Who did this to your roof?
Many fast-pay solar installs use template brackets. One guy marks a chalk line. Another drills. Neither checks for rafter hits using a real stud detector (those nostalgic toys that just beep near wires, anyhow). So brackets float, wood splinters, sealant is used like ketchup—everywhere.
Job’s done in 1.5 days. Feels heroic. Until 2nd winter. When the inside of your ceiling stains like coffee left in a cup holder since July.
Nobody wants to chase warranty phone numbers when ceiling tiles are sagging like wet paper bags. So… preventative rage helps. Sometimes.
Temporary vs Permanent—The Patch Dance
Some of you gonna ask—can’t I just slap something over and forget?
Well. Yeah. For 6 weeks, maybe a season. Then heat curls goop, UV eats adhesives, water memorizes new paths. And we’re back. Ugly ceiling splotch round two.
Permanent fix means proper layering. Roofing is all about which layer is above which—like lasagna or bad family dynamics. You don’t caulk the bottom and tape the top and expect physics to bend.
So yes: Remove surrounding tiles/shingles, patch clean, overlap with real flashing, reinstall hardware maybe, or don’t if you’re quitting solar like quitting hot yoga.
Choosing temporary vs permanent roof repairs often hinges on budget. A cheap patch might seem convenient, but you could need multiple patches over time. A permanent approach has a higher cost up front yet saves money in the long run. Property owners should consider the cost of extra materials, possible leak damage, and the inconvenience of repeated repairs.
https://butlersroofingscotland.com/temporary-vs-permanent-roof-repairs-understanding-the-key-differences/
The Guilt Spiral, Also Known as “Maybe We Shoulda Used Ballasts”
Ballasted systems aren’t pierced. They weigh solar systems down like a sun-powered paperweight using pavers or blocks. Heavier, sure. But sweet silence comes from knowing your roof hasn’t been Swiss-cheesed.
But too late, huh? Already a holy roof honky-tonk up there. But ponder this if doing it fresh next time. Think ballast. Or better flashing brackets, with EPDM gaskets. Or hire someone who owns a level and can say “asphalt composite” without wincing.
Conclusion? Eh, Kinda
So—how you fix PV rail perforation damage comes down to how much time you’ve got, what the weather’s doing, and whether the roof was already 20 years old and feeling emotionally vulnerable.
If you’re careful, methodical, and not high on insulation fumes, you can repair cleanly. Or at least hide the sins with confidence.
But if there’s mold inside your attic insulation?… buddy. Time to call someone. Or pour a tall coffee and pretend you live somewhere with no clouds.
Either way—no more holes for fun. Pre-drill, measure twice. Or just go off-grid and live in a van with a solar briefcase.
That’s plenty. My roof’s calling. Sounds like dripping. Again.
